glossary

Shantung cottonシャンタン

Shantung cotton – often called Shantan or Tsumugi-Momen in Japan – is a special cotton fabric. It imitates the elegant look and feel of wild silk, while retaining the robustness and easy care of pure cotton (Momen).

The special feature: Living structure

Unlike standard smooth cotton, Shantung is made with so-called slub yarns. These yarns have irregular thickenings. In weaving techniques, these uneven threads are usually woven in as weft threads. This creates the characteristic, slightly ribbed structure and a vibrant surface with small "knots." This effect is a deliberate homage to Tsumugi , a traditional and precious Japanese silk fabric.

Why Furoshiki?

For our large cloths, this material is technically superior:

  • The grip: The fabric has a better feel. Knots hold much better and don't slip.
  • The look: The matte shimmer makes colors appear deeper and more sophisticated.
  • Care instructions: 100% cotton – washable, durable, breathable.

Wakaba cotton若葉

The term Wakaba literally means "young leaves". In the world of the Tenugui, this refers to a special, high-quality weave, specifically developed to combine softness with high functionality.

Sarashi and texture

The base material is bleached cotton ( Sarashi ). In the Wakaba weave, particularly fine yarns are processed in such a way that the fabric is substantial enough for everyday use, yet feels soft against the skin. A unique feature: the fabric becomes even softer with each wash, without losing its structure.

Why Tenugui?

  • Color absorption: The fiber absorbs pigments deeply – for brilliant patterns without a “hard” application of color.
  • Absorbency: Wakaba absorbs moisture extremely quickly and dries just as quickly.
  • Skin-friendliness: Thanks to Eco-Bleach and fine weave, it's ideal for sensitive skin.

Yokohama Nassen横浜捺染

Nassen refers to the printing of textiles. Hamamonyo specifically uses the traditional Yokohama Nassen technique, which developed over 120 years in the port city of Yokohama and originally became world-famous for silk scarves.

Precision through templates

In this technique, color is applied to the fabric using fine stencils ( kata ). The unique aspect is that a separate stencil is required for each individual color in the design. For complex motifs, up to 10 different stencils must be aligned with millimeter precision, one after the other. This process demands enormous craftsmanship.

Why Nassen instead of Chusen?

While traditional dip dyeing ( Chusen ) often produces blurred gradients, Yokohama Nassen enables crisp lines and vibrant colors. This is the only way to apply detailed motifs (such as delicate snow tits or blossoms) to fabric. Furthermore, the fabric remains breathable because the dye penetrates the fibers and does not simply sit on the surface.

Wataoru 和タオル

The term Wataoru is a combination of the Japanese character Wa (和 = Japan/Harmony) and the loanword Taoru (Towel). It refers to a modern hybrid weaving technique that combines the best of two worlds.

The Hybrid Weave

A Wataoru consists of two different sides that are tightly woven together:

  • Front (Gauze): A smooth, fine cotton weave (similar to a Tenugui). This surface is ideal for brilliant textile printing and feels gentle on the skin.
  • Back (Pile): This side features absorbent loops (terry cloth). They ensure that the towel absorbs moisture efficiently, just as you would expect from a classic towel.

Why Wataoru?

Classic western terry towels are often thick and take a long time to dry. Traditional Tenugui are extremely thin but lack the "fluffy" feel for some applications.
The Wataoru solves this problem: It is significantly thinner and more compact than western towels and dries much faster, yet still offers the familiar absorbency of terry cloth.